Thats the gist of what Steve Kotler says hes learned as a Lyme disease survivor-turned-author of West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief (Bloomsbury).
Not only are surfing and religious experience intertwined, says Kotler, surfers can be incredibly motivated, disciplined people if being a waterman is a meaningful part of their life.
In Kotlers words, Its like martial arts, the whole philosophy and outlook on the universe becomes necessary to do it right.
Kotler says that when hes sitting in a surf lineup at dawn, hes often reminded just how many others are asleep.
He laughs, Its like that old Army commercial: We do more by 9 a.m. than most people do all day.
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