Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Author Of Book Fusing Surfing, Science and God Gets Busy

LOS ANGELES (Wireless Flash - FlashNews) – If your perception of surfers is still Jeff Spicoli from Fast Times At Ridgemont High, then get real, dude.

That’s the gist of what Steve Kotler says he’s learned as a Lyme disease survivor-turned-author of West Of Jesus: Surfing, Science and the Origins of Belief (Bloomsbury).

Not only are surfing and religious experience intertwined, says Kotler, surfers can be incredibly motivated, disciplined people – if being a “waterman” is a meaningful part of their life.

In Kotler’s words, “It’s like martial arts, the whole philosophy and outlook on the universe becomes necessary to do it right.”

Kotler says that when he’s sitting in a surf lineup at dawn, he’s often reminded just how many others are asleep.

He laughs, “It’s like that old Army commercial: ‘We do more by 9 a.m. than most people do all day.”’

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